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Understand your diamond

Choose with confidence.

Clear, impartial guidance to help you focus on what can genuinely be seen—without paying for grades that may offer little visible difference.

The 4Cs explained

What each grade actually means.

The 4Cs work together. A higher grade is not always visibly better, so we compare the complete diamond rather than choosing from one grade alone.

Cut — light and sparkle

Cut describes how effectively a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish return light. It usually has the greatest influence on brilliance. The scale below is the standard overall cut scale used for round brilliant diamonds; fancy shapes are assessed more individually.

ExcellentVery strong brightness, fire and scintillation when the proportions work well together.Our usual preference for round diamonds.
Very GoodReturns most light well; the difference from Excellent may be subtle to an untrained eye.Can offer good value after checking the proportions.
GoodNoticeably less efficient light return, with reduced brightness or sparkle in some areas.Consider only when the appearance and saving justify it.
FairMore light escapes from the diamond, making it appear less lively.Generally not recommended for a centre stone.
PoorWeak light return; the diamond may look dark, dull or smaller than its weight suggests.We would normally avoid this grade.

Colour — from colourless to tinted

The D–Z scale measures the absence of colour. Differences between neighbouring grades are subtle and are assessed under controlled conditions; shape, size and metal colour all affect what you may notice once the diamond is set.

D–F · ColourlessD is the highest colour grade. E and F contain minute colour differences that are usually difficult to detect face-up.A premium, icy-white appearance; often chosen for white gold or platinum.
G–J · Near colourlessSmall traces of warmth may be detected in controlled comparison, particularly toward J.Often the strongest balance of white appearance and value.
K–M · FaintA faint warm tone becomes easier to notice, especially in larger diamonds and colour-revealing shapes.Can suit yellow or rose gold and a warmer aesthetic.
N–R · Very lightYellow or brown tint is readily visible rather than merely detectable.Choose intentionally for warmth, not as a colourless look.
S–Z · LightObvious yellow or brown colour, increasing toward Z.A distinctive warm look; compare in person or by clear video before choosing.

Important: Diamonds beyond Z enter fancy-colour grading, where stronger colour may increase rarity and value rather than reduce it.

Clarity — natural characteristics

Clarity grades describe inclusions inside the diamond and blemishes on its surface, assessed at 10× magnification. The grade alone does not show where an inclusion sits or whether it is visible without magnification.

FL · FlawlessNo inclusions or blemishes visible to a skilled grader at 10× magnification.Exceptionally rare and priced at a premium.
IF · Internally FlawlessNo internal inclusions at 10×; only minor surface blemishes may be present.Visually comparable to FL without magnification.
VVS1–VVS2Minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to very difficult for a skilled grader to see at 10×.Very high clarity; differences are normally microscopic.
VS1–VS2Minor inclusions ranging from difficult to somewhat easy for a grader to find at 10×.Often eye-clean and a strong balance of appearance and value.
SI1–SI2Noticeable inclusions at 10×; some may be visible without magnification depending on their type, position and the diamond’s size.Inspect individually—an eye-clean example can offer value.
I1–I3 · IncludedObvious inclusions that may affect transparency, brilliance or durability, increasingly from I1 to I3.Usually unsuitable for a premium centre stone.

Carat — weight, not dimensions

One carat equals 0.20 grams. Carat does not directly describe width: shape, depth and proportions determine how large a diamond looks from above. These examples are approximate diameters for well-proportioned round diamonds.

0.50 ctApproximately 5.1 mm across.Refined and practical for a delicate centre stone.
0.75 ctApproximately 5.8 mm across.A noticeable step up from half a carat without reaching 1 ct pricing.
1.00 ctApproximately 6.4–6.5 mm across.A popular milestone size; compare spread as well as weight.
1.50 ctApproximately 7.3–7.4 mm across.Greater presence while remaining comfortable in many settings.
2.00 ctApproximately 8.1–8.2 mm across.A substantial centre stone where cut and proportions become especially important.
3.00 ctApproximately 9.3–9.4 mm across.Strong visual impact; assess dimensions, setting height and everyday wearability.

Remember: Elongated shapes such as oval, pear and marquise can appear larger than a round diamond of the same carat, while two diamonds with identical weight can have different face-up measurements.

Beyond the 4Cs

Other details worth understanding.

The grading report is a starting point. Origin, shape, proportions and the diamond’s actual appearance complete the picture.

Natural or lab-grown?

Both are diamonds with the same crystal structure and fundamental physical properties. The difference is origin: natural diamonds form in the earth, while lab-grown diamonds are created in a controlled environment. Natural diamonds generally carry greater rarity; lab-grown diamonds usually offer more size or specification for the budget. We clearly state the origin before purchase.

Shape and proportions

Shape changes both character and apparent size. Round diamonds are known for classic brilliance; oval, pear and marquise shapes can create an elongated look; emerald cuts emphasise clean lines and clarity; radiant and princess cuts offer a more geometric appearance. For elongated shapes, the length-to-width ratio helps define whether the outline looks slender or broad.

Certification and reports

An independent grading report records the diamond’s stated characteristics and identifying details. Your quotation confirms the grading laboratory and report supplied. Report details can be independently checked, but the report should be considered alongside the diamond’s actual appearance—not treated as a guarantee that every stone with the same grades looks identical.

Fluorescence

Fluorescence describes how some diamonds react under ultraviolet light. In many diamonds it has little visible effect in normal conditions and can sometimes offer better value. Strong fluorescence is assessed individually because, in uncommon cases, it may affect appearance.

Choosing for value

Spend first on the qualities you will notice: an attractive shape, strong light performance and a balanced face-up appearance. We can then optimise colour, clarity and carat around your priorities. Before approval, we confirm the selected stone’s origin, report, measurements and agreed specification—without substitution unless you approve it in writing.

Private Bespoke Consultation

You imagine it. We create it.

Whether you have a detailed design, an inspiration image or simply an idea, we’ll work with you to create bespoke diamond jewellery that brings your vision to life.

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